FEW PLACES SHOW a greater contrast between danger and beauty than the north-western corner of Australia. Cerulean water and white sand entice visitors to the beach where, just under the surface, sting rays, saltwater crocodiles and box jellyfish lurk. Counter to these dangers, however, Cape Leveque, about 200-oddkm north-east of Broome, epitomises the adventurer's paradise.
Accessible only with a 4WD (or sea plane), the journey to the Dampier Peninsula is half the fun. Accommodation like the dozen providers of bush camps, safari tents or cabins offer reprieve from the WA heat. You can swim at Kooljaman, but you're best advised to check with staff on current conditions, lest you run into stingers or other marine dangers. Barramundi and mangrove jack can also be caught in the Timor Sea, only a few hundred metres away.